The second part of our Char dham Yatra started with Gangotri..the birth place of the Holy river Ganga..this is the call,we are following, to have a glimpse of our most revered places, which are mentioned time and again,in scriptures, in epics, in our ancient historical references,the Mighty River ,which is cultivating and giving birth to millions of humans on it's shores, and which has witnessed the evolution of civilisations along the length and breadth of it's journey, which is a perennial river,and which is the essential life giver to our country's millions of masses.
We started our journey to Uttarakaashi ,literally meaning Benaras/ Kashi of North. The road is tortuous, some times no road at all, and it is mostly downhill road. Our journey was delayed ,due to many reasons, and as it is we were late and longing to relax on a bed, when we came to know, that on the way, due to heavy rains, there were huge stones falling and the road got blocked .
So we took lodging in another Hotel, unplanned, but it was comfortable ,as we have no real reason to complain. All the way, we were shouting and bargaining with our tour operators, the only unhappy point, in the whole otherwise ,wonderful tour.The tour operator failed many times to keep to his word and schedule and promised comforts..so beware of choosing your tour operator..inquire before you select one, is my experienced advice.
Next day, after a restful night, we proceeded to our next destination, which is Uttarkhasi.
There Kumar, my husband met a local person, who was so courteous, politically aware of the news of South which is a rarity ,in North, and we were so impressed how these people are so nice and cultured, than our own city people,just a comparison crossed our minds..
River Bhagiradhi enters plains here and the broad river is just so thrilling to watch, with its gurgling waters and rapid waters..
We were tempted to try a river rafting experience, by operators, working from there, but due to lack of time, could not attempt, this adventure.
If only, we had time..what an experience,we missed, I noted, next time,should not miss this lively, thrilling sporting time.
Next day morning, we started for the next stage of our Second Dham ...Gangotri ...Origin of the river Ganges and the seat of Goddess Ganga, the river is called Bhagiradhi at the source,and acquires the name Ganga from Devprayag on wards,where it meets the river Alakananda.The origin of the holy river is at Gomukh, which is a glacier,and is still a 19 km trek from Gangotri, we came to know.
We have seen in many movies, this place and were just waiting to enter this sacred place and drink the precious moments, to heart full..
We stopped on the way,for a hot breakfast and then proceeded to the next stop,Ganganani, where a hot water kund by the name ,Rushikund, is said to be very sacred.
But we could not venture to take a dip, as it looked like a closed kund, hmmm...better sense always prevailing over blind faith..we educated...huh..
From there ,we reach Gangotri, buses leave us at a place, from where we have to walk a distance, and return back to a place, where they can stop aside, giving way to coming buses.
The path is paved way, and as in any places of pilgrimage, shops selling all Godly things are on sale, like brass pots of Ganga water, and plastic tins to collect by ourselves fresh, Ganga water, as it is believed, it is a sacred form of liquid, and any pooja can be perfomed, or a dying man can be offered this sacred water to redeem him from his sins and to land him straight at heavens..Gangotri temple Diety photos, rudraksh malas and just so colourful and my legs keep stopping at every stall.
After coaxed and promised to have a leisurely
tour of these stalls, on return , we walk fast and get caught in a spiraling queue, what else,we can do, except join the mass..
It took, exactly and hour for our darshan, and we were allowed to have a leisurely glimpse and offer our pooja things, including kumkum, which was returned to us, after offering and a colourful cloth like band, those of which I saw tied to many vehicles.
The temple was built by Nepalese General Amar Singh Thapa,in the early 18th century, it is written.The temple is closed on Diwali day and is reopened in April/May..On the way, we saw many small rivulets crossing our path, and roads virtually like pools, very poor maintenance of roads, we observed. During winter, all these waters freeze and I can imagine, how dangerous the travel would be so it is understood the reason, behind the closure of the temple,
We proceeded to have a glimpse of the river, and lo, behold, it is just roaring and falling ferociously from white stones ,which must be millions of years old.
Ghats are constructed, many pilgrims are taking a dip, in those ice cold waters, we took a handful of water and sprinkled on our heads, ever vigilant of our health ..after all humans we are..
We collected some pure water from the river , into our tins and felt satisfied, our lunch was arranged across the river, in a hotel, so we crossed the bridge, taking photos of the river from many angles.
Next we collected at the place where we left the bus and we were taken back to Uttarkhasi.
Another night spend there ,and the next day, we started to the next or third Dham, Kedarnath, before this journey we visited Kashi Viswanadh temple, a famous temple in Uttarkhasi, and took his Blessings too. we also came to know it is one of the Twelve Jyothirlingas...a pleasant surprise, I have already visited Nageswara Temple ,one of the Jyothirlingas near Dwaraka..West Coast.
We proceeded to Kedarnath as planned and on the way, took a stop at Kiritinagar, for a night halt at riverside Lodge, which is just hanging on the banks of the river AlakaNanda.
The view of the river, here is gurgling waters in between hills and the force of the waters is astounding. Huge force, so it is natural to built a few Hydro electric projects, and we saw many projects on the way to Kedarnath.
Next we reach Gaurikund, from where our trekking starts to the heights of kedarnath.
The place is full of tourists, in all hues, all ages, all Regions, all Languages, every one trying to cope up with the cold chill, in the air and getting ready for the most difficult trek, of all.
Kedarnadh, the third Dham, is the remotest and one of the magnificent of all the Dhams, and is located in Lord Shiva's own country, The Himalayas. The sheer majesty of towering mountains, mantled in snow, tumbling streams and rivers, green meadows and thick forests,all seem to be sending a message, this is the extreme test for human endurance and spirit.
The ever defying human spirit, bows its head and plunges head long to this call of Nature..what I felt.
This is one sacred site, that has remained almost unchanged for centuries and has a spiritual spirit all of its own. For a devotee of Lord Shiva this is the last frontier ,the ultimate path to salvation.
My partner Kumar, has prepared himself to this arduous trekking, but I am always at my fragile best.
We engaged horses and I grouped myself with one party of co travelers, one Sinha and family , Kumar proceeded to trek the most difficult trek of 14 km.
It might be the ever memorable trek for his life.
We were also bone tired, the horses took breaks, and the never ending mountain range, made us cry, is there an end to this journey? why in the world ,we started this ,we are not too religious minded also, but still we committed ourselves to this trekking and the path to salvage of soul ,may be God has called us to examine our will power and waiting for us to pray, with hands folded, Please God, save us...may be..
We alighted at one horse Bus...naa horse stop and from there, with our numb feet, we have to walk, yes walk, I thought I will lie down on the street and sleep there itself, even if I turn into a heap of snow ,by morning.
We were carrying our change of clothes, some personal belongings, for one stay at night, counting step by step, finally we reached a lodge, in the alleys, and the street we were walking is lined by big blocks of ice, such a comfort.
There, we were given a bucket full of hot water ,to wash our faces and then a cold ice to lie upon, that is the bed, and another mattress to cover all cold as ice can be, and I was waiting, panicking by minute for Kumar to arrive.
His companion,a Delhite, dropped mid way ,taking refuge in those shops lining the trek, with a handsome rent of Rs 100/ for a comforter, rug, so he befriended another Gujarathi family, all of them trekking cheerfully, with hearts full of spiritual feelings.
So he finally arrived mid night or at eleven, I heaved a sigh of relief, he took his dinner and tried to sleep, in that remote place on Himalayas, yes Lord Shiva as our company.
We got up, tried to take a bath with one bucket full of hot water, dressed in a fresh pair and started to Kedarnath temple .The temple is quite old, and is one of the twelve Jyotirlaingas and was built by Adi Sankaracharya ,his final resting place or samadhi, is built here, and this is also one of the Jyothirlingas.
It was Monday, see our luck ,those who are not very serious about God ,are given every opportunity to believe in Him..We waited three hours, in a queue, not getting tempted by the Darshans in other ways!! ,and at last we entered the premises.
It was said, this temple was built by Pandavas in their vana vasam, and I remembered the song, Himagiri sogasulu...the priest there showed us the Figures of Pandavas erected in the corners of the sanctum, and the ShivLing is simple and we can perform abhishekam with the water we have carried along with us, bought outside.
He made us repeat the mantras and we were satisfied, with this pooja.
Finally we came out and surrounding us are Himalaya peaks, in their glory, shining like silver peaks, with sun adoring their peaks..
We collected our things and proceeded again by horse backs, to the place, where buses were waiting for us. The down trek too ,was arduous, the horses jumping and we not used to such bumps and jumps are bone tired..by the time we reached down.
From Gaurikund, we board buses and start back to the last stage of our journey.A stop at a place called Birahi for the night.
The next morning we started for the fourth Dham journey Badri nath.
This path is also an uphill travel, but no trekking, we can drive ,on the roads.
We pass such Popular places like Joshmath, I know one novel by this name, these places are managed by Border Security Forces (BSF) and We have to wait for our turn at this place as the roads, on the treacherous paths are so narrow, and convoy of buses take their turn, to pass this path.
We reached by evening, this is a pilgrims filled place and teaming with people and lodges, we were given a decent lodge and as part of our Executive fee collected from us a five star hotel too..where we had the comfort of electricity heated blanket, first time saw this.
The next morning, we were there by 7 and we waited another three hours in queue, sun was bright and surrounding Himalaya peaks stood tall, keeping company with us, this part of the scene, we have seen in many movies, specially Hindi movies.
It is said to be one of the Holiest of temples and is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is said to be also one of the 108 Divya Desams, Holy places for Vaishnavites, so we were blessed to visit the holy places of both Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu, without any prejudice to either of them.The temple is situated along the river Alaknanda.
This temple is also closed for six months from October to April/ May months, due to extreme weather conditions.When the temple is closed the Moorthi is shifted to near by Jyothir math in the downhill.
The Murthi inside sanctum is One meter tall Badira Narayana Murthy Statue, made of black Saligram Stone.It is considered as svayam vyaktha Statue,or self manifested statues, hence the sacred feeling for pious pilgrims.
The temple is built in a height, have a flight of stairs and the entrance is intricately carved, but it is simple and so earthly, on the whole, like closer to ordinary people, without so much of pomp and decorations.
We perambulated around the temple, no pushing and jostling, and went inside and had a glimpse of the Diety and took his Blessings, too..
We were back in our Hotel by noon, and then ready to leave the place to Rishikesh, on our way back to Delhi.
All along the route, rivers give us company, with their twisting routes and some times jump from heights, a feast to our eyes, our van keeps driving and we keep sighing, that we are leaving Mighty Himalayas and entering our plains, filled with ordinary mortals like us.
Himalayas, the mighty Himalayas abodes of our Holier Gods and Goddesses, I do not know, whether they really existed or not, but thankful to our ancestors ,who created such myths and may be real stories around some divine places.
I always wonder our Gods are placed on Mountains, Along Rivers, or some Beautiful places, caves, all so far and high and calling us to come ,fall in love with the nature, the place we live.
But my premise is God, is all permeating and to expect him to stay in one form or statue, is our imagination...My idea of spirituality is to be in harmony with Nature and do not harm human beings or any living things, with intention or other wise.
This holy trip made me realise how puny we are ,in front of mighty Himalayas, some people are like Himalayas, like for example Ramakrishna Swamy or Vivekananda ji, we have to learn from them, their ideals and words and attain some enlightening.Prodding hills and perambulating hundreds of times around Temple ,is not enough, but spiritual awakening from inside, should be the call of the day.
We reached Rishikesh, on the way we saw river Ganga entering the plains, with swift flow ,and we saw natural picnic spots and groups, along the shore, a sure way of enjoying the river' s beauty..
Rishikesh is another sacred place on the river Ganga, we took a short trip, visited Lakshman temple, crossing Lakshman jhula, the swaying rope bridge and did some last minute shopping of Ganga waters in closed containers as gifts or mementos and we were back in our Haridwar Lodge, for the night stay.
Early morning, we started our trip back to Delhi..
My soul is left on the mountains, still searching for that evasive mukthi moment..my body is here, now I realise, without some Shakthi helping us, we couldn't have made this Chardham Yatra..
This yatra so sacred to a Hindu , so enthralling for a traveler spirit,we saw some Europeans making this trek, to still higher altitudes searching for their spiritual calling, what is that they are searching, for, what is that force, which has been pulling spiritual leaders like Sankaracharya ji from deep south to this extreme tip, of Himalayas, what made him travel all this wilderness, in search of God, a shape, a form, a calling,a blessing or the call of the deep soul.....
What ever it is, we are glad, we also tread that path, in search of some soul searching and some human endurance testing..moments.
Friends,this is the end of my second part..but my wandering spirit is saying...not the end, it is the beginning...
We started our journey to Uttarakaashi ,literally meaning Benaras/ Kashi of North. The road is tortuous, some times no road at all, and it is mostly downhill road. Our journey was delayed ,due to many reasons, and as it is we were late and longing to relax on a bed, when we came to know, that on the way, due to heavy rains, there were huge stones falling and the road got blocked .
So we took lodging in another Hotel, unplanned, but it was comfortable ,as we have no real reason to complain. All the way, we were shouting and bargaining with our tour operators, the only unhappy point, in the whole otherwise ,wonderful tour.The tour operator failed many times to keep to his word and schedule and promised comforts..so beware of choosing your tour operator..inquire before you select one, is my experienced advice.
Next day, after a restful night, we proceeded to our next destination, which is Uttarkhasi.
There Kumar, my husband met a local person, who was so courteous, politically aware of the news of South which is a rarity ,in North, and we were so impressed how these people are so nice and cultured, than our own city people,just a comparison crossed our minds..
River Bhagiradhi enters plains here and the broad river is just so thrilling to watch, with its gurgling waters and rapid waters..
We were tempted to try a river rafting experience, by operators, working from there, but due to lack of time, could not attempt, this adventure.
If only, we had time..what an experience,we missed, I noted, next time,should not miss this lively, thrilling sporting time.
Next day morning, we started for the next stage of our Second Dham ...Gangotri ...Origin of the river Ganges and the seat of Goddess Ganga, the river is called Bhagiradhi at the source,and acquires the name Ganga from Devprayag on wards,where it meets the river Alakananda.The origin of the holy river is at Gomukh, which is a glacier,and is still a 19 km trek from Gangotri, we came to know.
We have seen in many movies, this place and were just waiting to enter this sacred place and drink the precious moments, to heart full..
We stopped on the way,for a hot breakfast and then proceeded to the next stop,Ganganani, where a hot water kund by the name ,Rushikund, is said to be very sacred.
But we could not venture to take a dip, as it looked like a closed kund, hmmm...better sense always prevailing over blind faith..we educated...huh..
From there ,we reach Gangotri, buses leave us at a place, from where we have to walk a distance, and return back to a place, where they can stop aside, giving way to coming buses.
The path is paved way, and as in any places of pilgrimage, shops selling all Godly things are on sale, like brass pots of Ganga water, and plastic tins to collect by ourselves fresh, Ganga water, as it is believed, it is a sacred form of liquid, and any pooja can be perfomed, or a dying man can be offered this sacred water to redeem him from his sins and to land him straight at heavens..Gangotri temple Diety photos, rudraksh malas and just so colourful and my legs keep stopping at every stall.
After coaxed and promised to have a leisurely
tour of these stalls, on return , we walk fast and get caught in a spiraling queue, what else,we can do, except join the mass..
It took, exactly and hour for our darshan, and we were allowed to have a leisurely glimpse and offer our pooja things, including kumkum, which was returned to us, after offering and a colourful cloth like band, those of which I saw tied to many vehicles.
The temple was built by Nepalese General Amar Singh Thapa,in the early 18th century, it is written.The temple is closed on Diwali day and is reopened in April/May..On the way, we saw many small rivulets crossing our path, and roads virtually like pools, very poor maintenance of roads, we observed. During winter, all these waters freeze and I can imagine, how dangerous the travel would be so it is understood the reason, behind the closure of the temple,
We proceeded to have a glimpse of the river, and lo, behold, it is just roaring and falling ferociously from white stones ,which must be millions of years old.
Ghats are constructed, many pilgrims are taking a dip, in those ice cold waters, we took a handful of water and sprinkled on our heads, ever vigilant of our health ..after all humans we are..
We collected some pure water from the river , into our tins and felt satisfied, our lunch was arranged across the river, in a hotel, so we crossed the bridge, taking photos of the river from many angles.
Next we collected at the place where we left the bus and we were taken back to Uttarkhasi.
Another night spend there ,and the next day, we started to the next or third Dham, Kedarnath, before this journey we visited Kashi Viswanadh temple, a famous temple in Uttarkhasi, and took his Blessings too. we also came to know it is one of the Twelve Jyothirlingas...a pleasant surprise, I have already visited Nageswara Temple ,one of the Jyothirlingas near Dwaraka..West Coast.
We proceeded to Kedarnath as planned and on the way, took a stop at Kiritinagar, for a night halt at riverside Lodge, which is just hanging on the banks of the river AlakaNanda.
The view of the river, here is gurgling waters in between hills and the force of the waters is astounding. Huge force, so it is natural to built a few Hydro electric projects, and we saw many projects on the way to Kedarnath.
Next we reach Gaurikund, from where our trekking starts to the heights of kedarnath.
The place is full of tourists, in all hues, all ages, all Regions, all Languages, every one trying to cope up with the cold chill, in the air and getting ready for the most difficult trek, of all.
Kedarnadh, the third Dham, is the remotest and one of the magnificent of all the Dhams, and is located in Lord Shiva's own country, The Himalayas. The sheer majesty of towering mountains, mantled in snow, tumbling streams and rivers, green meadows and thick forests,all seem to be sending a message, this is the extreme test for human endurance and spirit.
The ever defying human spirit, bows its head and plunges head long to this call of Nature..what I felt.
This is one sacred site, that has remained almost unchanged for centuries and has a spiritual spirit all of its own. For a devotee of Lord Shiva this is the last frontier ,the ultimate path to salvation.
My partner Kumar, has prepared himself to this arduous trekking, but I am always at my fragile best.
We engaged horses and I grouped myself with one party of co travelers, one Sinha and family , Kumar proceeded to trek the most difficult trek of 14 km.
It might be the ever memorable trek for his life.
We were also bone tired, the horses took breaks, and the never ending mountain range, made us cry, is there an end to this journey? why in the world ,we started this ,we are not too religious minded also, but still we committed ourselves to this trekking and the path to salvage of soul ,may be God has called us to examine our will power and waiting for us to pray, with hands folded, Please God, save us...may be..
We alighted at one horse Bus...naa horse stop and from there, with our numb feet, we have to walk, yes walk, I thought I will lie down on the street and sleep there itself, even if I turn into a heap of snow ,by morning.
We were carrying our change of clothes, some personal belongings, for one stay at night, counting step by step, finally we reached a lodge, in the alleys, and the street we were walking is lined by big blocks of ice, such a comfort.
There, we were given a bucket full of hot water ,to wash our faces and then a cold ice to lie upon, that is the bed, and another mattress to cover all cold as ice can be, and I was waiting, panicking by minute for Kumar to arrive.
His companion,a Delhite, dropped mid way ,taking refuge in those shops lining the trek, with a handsome rent of Rs 100/ for a comforter, rug, so he befriended another Gujarathi family, all of them trekking cheerfully, with hearts full of spiritual feelings.
So he finally arrived mid night or at eleven, I heaved a sigh of relief, he took his dinner and tried to sleep, in that remote place on Himalayas, yes Lord Shiva as our company.
We got up, tried to take a bath with one bucket full of hot water, dressed in a fresh pair and started to Kedarnath temple .The temple is quite old, and is one of the twelve Jyotirlaingas and was built by Adi Sankaracharya ,his final resting place or samadhi, is built here, and this is also one of the Jyothirlingas.
It was Monday, see our luck ,those who are not very serious about God ,are given every opportunity to believe in Him..We waited three hours, in a queue, not getting tempted by the Darshans in other ways!! ,and at last we entered the premises.
It was said, this temple was built by Pandavas in their vana vasam, and I remembered the song, Himagiri sogasulu...the priest there showed us the Figures of Pandavas erected in the corners of the sanctum, and the ShivLing is simple and we can perform abhishekam with the water we have carried along with us, bought outside.
He made us repeat the mantras and we were satisfied, with this pooja.
Finally we came out and surrounding us are Himalaya peaks, in their glory, shining like silver peaks, with sun adoring their peaks..
We collected our things and proceeded again by horse backs, to the place, where buses were waiting for us. The down trek too ,was arduous, the horses jumping and we not used to such bumps and jumps are bone tired..by the time we reached down.
From Gaurikund, we board buses and start back to the last stage of our journey.A stop at a place called Birahi for the night.
The next morning we started for the fourth Dham journey Badri nath.
This path is also an uphill travel, but no trekking, we can drive ,on the roads.
We pass such Popular places like Joshmath, I know one novel by this name, these places are managed by Border Security Forces (BSF) and We have to wait for our turn at this place as the roads, on the treacherous paths are so narrow, and convoy of buses take their turn, to pass this path.
We reached by evening, this is a pilgrims filled place and teaming with people and lodges, we were given a decent lodge and as part of our Executive fee collected from us a five star hotel too..where we had the comfort of electricity heated blanket, first time saw this.
The next morning, we were there by 7 and we waited another three hours in queue, sun was bright and surrounding Himalaya peaks stood tall, keeping company with us, this part of the scene, we have seen in many movies, specially Hindi movies.
It is said to be one of the Holiest of temples and is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is said to be also one of the 108 Divya Desams, Holy places for Vaishnavites, so we were blessed to visit the holy places of both Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu, without any prejudice to either of them.The temple is situated along the river Alaknanda.
This temple is also closed for six months from October to April/ May months, due to extreme weather conditions.When the temple is closed the Moorthi is shifted to near by Jyothir math in the downhill.
The Murthi inside sanctum is One meter tall Badira Narayana Murthy Statue, made of black Saligram Stone.It is considered as svayam vyaktha Statue,or self manifested statues, hence the sacred feeling for pious pilgrims.
The temple is built in a height, have a flight of stairs and the entrance is intricately carved, but it is simple and so earthly, on the whole, like closer to ordinary people, without so much of pomp and decorations.
We perambulated around the temple, no pushing and jostling, and went inside and had a glimpse of the Diety and took his Blessings, too..
We were back in our Hotel by noon, and then ready to leave the place to Rishikesh, on our way back to Delhi.
All along the route, rivers give us company, with their twisting routes and some times jump from heights, a feast to our eyes, our van keeps driving and we keep sighing, that we are leaving Mighty Himalayas and entering our plains, filled with ordinary mortals like us.
Himalayas, the mighty Himalayas abodes of our Holier Gods and Goddesses, I do not know, whether they really existed or not, but thankful to our ancestors ,who created such myths and may be real stories around some divine places.
I always wonder our Gods are placed on Mountains, Along Rivers, or some Beautiful places, caves, all so far and high and calling us to come ,fall in love with the nature, the place we live.
But my premise is God, is all permeating and to expect him to stay in one form or statue, is our imagination...My idea of spirituality is to be in harmony with Nature and do not harm human beings or any living things, with intention or other wise.
This holy trip made me realise how puny we are ,in front of mighty Himalayas, some people are like Himalayas, like for example Ramakrishna Swamy or Vivekananda ji, we have to learn from them, their ideals and words and attain some enlightening.Prodding hills and perambulating hundreds of times around Temple ,is not enough, but spiritual awakening from inside, should be the call of the day.
We reached Rishikesh, on the way we saw river Ganga entering the plains, with swift flow ,and we saw natural picnic spots and groups, along the shore, a sure way of enjoying the river' s beauty..
Rishikesh is another sacred place on the river Ganga, we took a short trip, visited Lakshman temple, crossing Lakshman jhula, the swaying rope bridge and did some last minute shopping of Ganga waters in closed containers as gifts or mementos and we were back in our Haridwar Lodge, for the night stay.
Early morning, we started our trip back to Delhi..
My soul is left on the mountains, still searching for that evasive mukthi moment..my body is here, now I realise, without some Shakthi helping us, we couldn't have made this Chardham Yatra..
This yatra so sacred to a Hindu , so enthralling for a traveler spirit,we saw some Europeans making this trek, to still higher altitudes searching for their spiritual calling, what is that they are searching, for, what is that force, which has been pulling spiritual leaders like Sankaracharya ji from deep south to this extreme tip, of Himalayas, what made him travel all this wilderness, in search of God, a shape, a form, a calling,a blessing or the call of the deep soul.....
What ever it is, we are glad, we also tread that path, in search of some soul searching and some human endurance testing..moments.
Friends,this is the end of my second part..but my wandering spirit is saying...not the end, it is the beginning...
Excellent preview madam. I have really enjoyed in reading the blog. Thank u very much for sharing.
ReplyDeleteM D P RAO stands for Mukavilli Dharma Prakasa Rao
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